Is there delicious cheese in Russia and how to recognize it, says the best cheese sommelier in Russia 2021

“I am one of those who have been missing Italian and French cheeses for more than 7 years. True, I found an alternative to some of them among Russian producers, so I can say: yes, there is delicious cheese in Russia, you just need to choose it correctly. I learned how to do this in practice.

In 2021, during the pandemic, I started studying at Olesya Shevchuk’s cheese making school. Yes, we are namesakes, but not relatives. In 2021, she received a Master Cheesemaker diploma. Now I make cheese at home - for my family. My family always looks forward to the next tasting and everyone already has their own favorites.

This year I completed my studies at the British Academy of Cheese and applied to participate in the “Best Cheese Sommelier of Russia 2021” competition. The jury selected me from more than 50 participants and I became one of 7 finalists of the competition. There was little time for preparation, so many elements were created in the last days before the competition. The finalists were very strong and there was no hope for an easy victory.

The jury recognized me as the winner, and this is a very important victory for me! I plan to continue learning and making people fall in love with cheese.

Olga Shevchuk, best cheese sommelier in Russia 2021

What is delicious cheese?

Delicious cheese is cheese made with love and technology. Violation of technology, at best, will lead to the creation of “author’s cheese”, but more often it can cause defects in the cheese: peeling of the rind, excessive fluidity and even bitterness.

Scientists have proven that each person perceives tastes differently. Some people prefer fresh cheeses with a slight aroma of milk, others like aromatic aged cheeses or cheeses with washed rinds, others like cheeses with white or blue mold.

Delicious cheese is also a combination of aroma and taste. There is a huge variety of cheese aromas: from subtle and light (yogurt, freshly cut grass, nuts, mushrooms) to bright, sometimes even overwhelming (fish, farm and the so-called “sock smell”). My advice: don’t be afraid of the first impression of the aroma of the cheese. Give it a second chance, listen to the aroma and be sure to taste the cheese!

The main thing is that there is aroma! By the way, this is a wonderful test of smell in the current epidemiological situation.

Cheese!

Siiiiiirrrrrr!

In this article we will talk about such a wonderful dairy product as cheese. About a product that, according to ancient scriptures, was created completely by accident, and is now a widespread food product throughout the world. Cheese, like wine, is one of man’s most wonderful creations!

Etymology

The word “cheese” comes from the Latin caseus, from which the word “casein” also comes - the main component of milk, the protein that is the basis of cheese. In Old English this word was written as cīese or cēse, later it turned into chese, and in the modern version it was transformed into the cheese we know. Caseus is also the root word for cheese in a number of other languages - "queso" in Spanish, "kaas" in Danish, "käse" in German, and "queijo" in Portuguese. Caseus Formatus, or pressed cheese, gave rise to the word formaticum, which the Romans used to designate the hard cheese that served as rations for legionnaires. From this word, in turn, came the French fromage (a type of soft cheese) and the Italian formaggio.

Early history

Cheese was a common food product in ancient times; scientists believe that people began eating it as early as the 8th millennium BC, when sheep were domesticated. More conservative forecasts move this event forward 5,000 years. It is believed that the process of making cheese was found in the Middle East or by nomadic Turkish tribes living in Central Asia. For them, the task of preserving food during long marches was urgent, and for this they often used animal skins and internal organs. Milk in such “reservoirs” (stomachs) was curdled into cottage cheese, and under certain circumstances the product could well have been the prototype of modern cheese.

Proof

The first archaeological evidence of cheese making came from excavations in ancient Egypt in the form of cave murals dating back over 2000 BC. Most likely, this cheese was very sour and salty, since a large amount of salt was necessary to improve the preservation of the cheese in the hot Egyptian climate. Of the modern varieties of cheese, feta can be considered the most similar to the ancient Egyptian one.

Art

The ancient Greeks and Romans were the first to turn cheese making into an art. Rich Roman homes even had special rooms called "careale" dedicated exclusively to cheese making. After the development and improvement of cheese making technology, including “flavoring” and smoking, this craft began to gradually spread throughout the empire, changing and improving.

Diversity

After the fall of Rome, some inventive monks developed new varieties of cheese, close in taste and technology to modern ones. According to the British Cheese Board, there are 700 varieties of cheese in England, while France and Italy have 400 varieties each. The varied colors, smells, and textures of cheeses depend on many factors - the type of milk, the types of bacteria and the acids used to separate the milk. The age of the cheese, additional flavorings and other exotics, such as mushrooms and insects, also affect it.

Cheese production

Cheese is made from the milk of various animals: cow, sheep, goat or buffalo. Thus, in the production of Italian Mozzarella cheese, black buffalo milk is traditionally used. Today there are many varieties of Mozzarella that are also made from cow's milk. Finnish cheese Ilves is made from reindeer milk, and in Jordan, shepherds use goat, sheep and camel milk along with cow's milk to make Laban. In addition to the types of milk, the habitat of the animals also plays a decisive role - certain types of cheese can only be made from the milk of local animals. For example, Mountain cheese is made only from the milk of Alpine cows.

The characteristics of further processing of milk play an important role in the cheese making process. The technology for producing cheese from milk has not changed for thousands of years. In its most general form, cheese production is simple: the curd is separated from the whey. To do this, put the milk in a warm place for a while until it sours and thickens. This process occurs thanks to lactic acid bacteria. To speed up the curdling process or influence the taste of the cheese, a so-called starter culture is added to the milk. This could be yogurt or slightly sour yesterday’s milk. However, the most important means of fermenting milk in cheese making is rennet. The addition of rennet makes it possible to obtain not only a variety of cheese varieties, but also to increase its shelf life. Rennet is an enzyme that can be found in the stomachs of suckling calves, kids or lambs. This enzyme helps turn the casein in milk into a solid and makes it digestible.

It should be noted that there are also herbal means of coagulating milk - this is fig juice and starter grass. However, if everything were so simple... Already in the process of separation (separating the cheese mass from the whey), there are many subtleties on which the final result - the type of cheese obtained - depends. So, for some varieties the milk is heated, while others are prepared at room temperature. After the whey is separated, the cheese mass is subjected to further processing. It is shaped, salted, dried, washed and then aged. The sophistication and peculiarity of the taste of each cheese is in the details of this process: some are stuffed with mold fungi, others are pressed or washed in brine. Each cheese has its own special procedure. It is during the process of processing and ripening that each type and variety of cheese acquires its own special taste. There is hardly any cheese that does not need aging. Aging in certain cases can take years. So, hard Parmesan cheese needs to be stored for quite a long time. Some cheeses must be aged only in special rooms - such as real Roquefort, which must be “ripened” only in caves, under favorable climatic conditions.

Famous types of cheeses

Like no other dairy product, cheese is amazing in its variety of types and tastes. Each variety is original and distinctive in its own way, with its own history and character. * Edam cheese

The cheese, created in the city of Edam and known in our country as “Dutch”, is a symbol of Dutch cheese making. Its taste is slightly nutty, and the aroma is stronger the greater the maturity of the cheese. Edam cheese is made in many countries, giving it a wide variety of shapes. In France it is sold under the name “mimolet”. * Cheddar

The truly English cheese is named after the town in Somerset, where it was first made at the end of the 16th century. At first it was made from sheep and goat milk, then they switched to cow milk. To produce this hard cheese, whole pasteurized or raw milk is used. Wrapped in cloth, cheddar matures from 60 days to six months, and sometimes a year. Cheddar is usually produced in the form of a cylinder weighing 27-35 kilograms. In 1840, cheese farmers, deciding to make a wedding gift to Queen Victoria, produced a giant 500-kilogram cheddar, which used the milk of 750 cows! Cheddar is one of the world's best-selling cheeses. Since 1851, cheddar has been produced in the USA, and in such quantities that American cheddar is supplied to England. The dough of this cheese is ivory or yellowish, but sometimes during the production process it is tinted with the natural dye annatto. True cheddar has a nutty and slightly sharp and sour flavor. * Munster French cheese originally from Alsace, made from cow's milk. According to legend, Benedictine monks began brewing it in the 7th century (the name “Münster” itself comes from the word “monastery”). This hard cheese has a flexible, straw-colored dough. It has a strong aroma and a spicy, piquant taste. In Alsace, this cheese is traditionally sprinkled on warm potatoes, added to salads, and served as a spicy appetizer. * Emmentaler cheese (Emmenthaler) This hard cow's milk cheese was first prepared in the Emme Valley, in the Swiss canton of Bern, back in the 13th century. The cheese got its name from the valley. This variety has different shades - from ivory to pale yellow. Its body is riddled with large holes and covered with a tough, dry crust, golden yellow or brownish. The weight of these “millstones” can reach 130 kilograms! Emmental cheese crossed the borders of the Swiss Alps a long time ago. It is produced in Germany, France, Austria, Finland and some non-European countries. Emmental cheese is good for appetizers and desserts; it is used to make salads. * Parmesan

This is the king of cheeses and the cheese of kings. The Italians call it Parmigiano Reggiano. Outside the country, and sometimes in Italy itself, Parmesan is often understood as any very hard cheese. Italians have been making hard cheeses since time immemorial. One of them is known as "grana". In Italy, several varieties of Parmesan are made, varying in shape and size and slightly different in the way they are prepared. The first Parmesan was obtained in the vicinity of Parma, hence its name. Parmesan is the hardest of all hard cheeses, and it is also not fatty (32% fat in dry matter). Italian cheesemakers, who control the cheese leaving the cellars, check the quality of Parmesan with a special hammer, determining by sound whether the cheese is “healthy” and whether voids have formed in it. The ripening time of Parmesan is amazing - it can last up to 10 or even more years. Moreover, experts claim that it does not lose its properties, but only becomes more and more hard, such that it can only be split with a hammer, but it is stored for a very long time. And yet, most often this cheese matures for 3 - 4 years, resulting in a pleasant pungent aroma and salty taste. The production of this cheese has long gone beyond Italy. Parmesan is almost always consumed grated - for seasoning various dishes or as a side dish for pasta. * Gruyere

A Swiss classic, hard cheese, which was first produced in the canton of Fribourg. Gruyère is made from cow's milk. The cheese drum, with an average diameter of 40-45 centimeters, matures for about 6 months in damp basements. Gruyère's dough is firm but flexible, ivory or light amber in color with sparsely spaced tiny nostrils. The taste of Gruyère is fruity and slightly salty. * Roquefort This is the true patriarch of French cheeses. Real Roquefort is made exclusively from sheep's milk, and of all the sheep's cheeses, only Roquefort has managed to earn undisputed world fame. To prepare this living cheese, the mold fungus Penicillium Roqueforti, which is grown on rye bread, is added to the cheese mass. The name of this cheese was given by the small town of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. During ripening, the Roquefort heads are pierced so that the fungus grows inward, forming slit-like veins. After 3 months, the dough becomes flexible, blue veins penetrate into the cheese body, Roquefort acquires the desired consistency and taste. About 16 thousand tons of this cheese ripen annually in the grottoes. The owners of the grottoes ensured that the production of Roquefort became their monopoly. Even King Charles VI granted local cheesemakers the exclusive right to prepare this cheese, and in 1550 a decree was passed in Toulouse prohibiting the sale of cheese called Roquefort, prepared in other places. The packaging of true Roquefort bears a “security” red seal - a sheep in an oval. Soft, buttery, slightly crumbly Roquefort dough is riddled with greenish-blue streaks of mold. For its piquant taste and delicate aroma, connoisseurs call Roquefort an aristocratic cheese. This particularly delicious cheese can add personality to any salad or pasta dish. * Camembert

This unique, world-famous cheese creation was born in French Normandy. According to legend, it was invented in 1791 by the peasant woman Marie Harel, a resident of the village of Camembert. A monument was erected in honor of its creator in Normandy. The traditional packaging of Camembert - a round box - was developed in 1890, and before it was wrapped in straw. In France, it is still made from raw cow's milk. To prepare this cheese, mold fungal cultures are added to the milk during ripening. * Feta

Greek soft cheese made from sheep's milk, with snow-white pulp. He may have become the progenitor of all the cheeses that are now common in the Mediterranean. Nowadays, it is prepared like this: starter is added to sheep’s milk, then the whey is drained, and the cheese mass is poured into linen bags, pressed and dried for 24 hours. Then they are cut into discs and kept in brine for at least a month. Feta is the most important component of a classic Greek salad. * Mozzarella Previously, this fresh creamy cheese was made in Italy exclusively from buffalo milk. Today it is also produced from cow's milk. It is eaten fresh, slightly ripe or completely unripe. Its dough is soft, white, with a pleasant sour taste. Mozzarella is served as an appetizer with vegetables and olive oil and is widely used to make pizza. Mozzarella, which is produced in Italy about 100 thousand tons per year from both cow and buffalo milk, is becoming increasingly famous worldwide thanks to the development of the pizzeria system. * Bree

The famous French cheese, originally from Ile-de-France, with whitish noble mold, made from cow's milk. Previously, brie was covered in mucus instead of mold, but then the technology for its preparation improved. Brie matures within a month. It is white towards the edges, with reddish “scorches”, the dough is soft, an appetizing pale yellow color. The taste is subtle, with a nutty tint. In France, several varieties are produced - brie de Meaux, brie de Melun, brie de Coulommier. Each with its own taste characteristics. Brie is one of the main dessert cheeses in France. * Tofu

This soy cheese stands out in some ways. It is one of the oldest traditionally produced natural soy products in Asia, which is a kind of protein concentrate. Rich in proteins, calcium, iron and practically free of fat, tofu is also interesting because it quickly absorbs the taste of the product with which it is used. Superior in protein value to meat, tofu is a godsend for a vegetarian. In addition to the classic representatives, I would like to mention special types of cheese : Moose milk cheese

The vast majority of cheeses are made from cow, sheep or goat milk. Some exotic cheeses are based on the milk of other animals, for example on a farm in Bjurholm (Sweden) the cheese is made from moose milk. The lactation period for moose is short (June-August), therefore, given that the farm owners keep three moose cows as “suppliers,” this produces no more than 300 kg of such cheese per year. The cost of such cheese is $1000 per kilogram. Dangerous cheese "Casu Marzu"

Casu Marzu is a special type of cheese produced in Sardinia that contains fly larvae. Translated from Sardinian, “casu marzu” means “rotten cheese”, and in colloquial speech the expression “wormy cheese” is also used. Casu Marzu is kept longer than the normal fermentation stage, thereby reaching a state of rotting caused by the digestive activity of cheese fly larvae. Worms accelerate the process of decomposition and breakdown of fats contained in cheese, which is why the product becomes soft. This cheese cannot be found on the market even in Italy, since this delicacy, infested with insects, can shock even a gourmet. Moreover, the larvae move quite briskly in the cheese head and feel right at home. Sometimes they can jump up to 15 centimeters, so it is recommended to protect your eyes while eating. However, farmers in Sardinia, as well as in Piedmont and Bergamo in northern Italy, remember the secrets of preparing this delicacy. In great secret, they will fulfill an exotic order for the fearless “larvae eater.”

How to choose delicious cheese?

There are many criteria for choosing cheese. Here are just a few of them.

Country of origin/manufacturer

Now in our country you can buy cheeses of both Russian and foreign origin, with the exception of cheeses from EU countries. The main producing countries found on store shelves are Russia, Belarus (mainly soft and semi-hard cheeses) and Switzerland (mainly semi-hard and hard cheeses).

Name/composition

Pay attention to the name of the product: are you buying “cheese” or “cheese product” with milk fat substitute?

The cheese must contain: milk, milk-clotting enzyme, starter (mesophilic and/or thermophilic microorganisms), salt.

Acceptable: sealant (calcium chloride), natural dyes (annatto, spinach, seaweed, etc.), natural additives (fenugreek, pepper, spices, etc.).

The presence of substitutes for milk fat and starch is unacceptable.

Availability of certificates/awards

Swiss cheeses may be AOP certified. This means that the cheese has a protected name and was produced in a certain region of the country using traditional technology.

Russian cheese makers participate in international competitions and receive medals. For example, at the latest prestigious competitions in France in 2021, Mondial du Fromage and Fromonval, Russian cheeses received 10 medals, including 5 gold.

In Russia, the national competition “Cheese, Feast, Peace” is held annually, where the “Best Cheese of Russia” is determined. In 2021, this award was received by Grand Premier cheese from the Milk Group Group of Companies. The full list of awards can be found on the organizer's website .

Milk type

Cheese sold in Russia is made from cow, goat, sheep milk or a mixture.

Note that cheese made from goat's or sheep's milk has a stronger flavor, even in young cheeses.

In Russia, the production of cheese from milk that has not undergone heat treatment (unpasteurized milk) is legally prohibited. And this is primarily associated with great veterinary risks, since raw milk can contain a high number of microorganisms that are dangerous to human life and health. However, some foreign cheeses sold in Russia are made from raw milk.

QUOTES AND APHORISMS ABOUT CHEESE

Cheese is one of the most ancient culinary products known to mankind. Its history goes back more than 7,000 years. Ancient Egyptian frescoes depicting cheese production have been preserved; it is mentioned by Homer in the Odyssey, and the ancient Roman writer Pliny in his works compares the types of cheese produced in different regions. The Middle Ages can rightfully be considered the “golden age” of cheese making, and the advent of the Renaissance marked an increase in the number of different varieties. Roquefort appeared in the eleventh century, Parmesan, cheddar and Emmental - in the fourteenth, Gouda - in the seventeenth, Camembert - at the end of the eighteenth.

. It is difficult to say how many varieties of cheese exist today. The figure ranges from 800 to 2000. More than 400 varieties of cheese are produced in France alone. “France produces as many cheeses as there are days in the year - from soft creamy to hard and crumbly, from razor-sharp to delicate creamy, cheeses from cow's, goat's and sheep's milk, cheeses seasoned with herbs and pepper, marinated in olive oil and aged in the reeds. Choosing just one cheese from all this abundance is not an easy task.” Peter Mayle, “Traveling with a Fork and Corkscrew” (2001)

A distinctive feature of many types of cheese is their aromas, sometimes very unusual. For example, Napoleon's favorite cheese, Epoisses, has such an unpleasant odor that in France it is prohibited from being transported on public transport. The most famous description of the aromas of a cheese shop was given by Emile Zola in his novel “The Belly of Paris” (1873), which was called a “cheese symphony”.

… Camembert, which stinks of rotten game, has prevailed over the less pungent aromas of Morole and Limburg cheeses;
its choking fumes spread throughout the shop, suppressing other odors with its rotten breath. However, from time to time the thin voice of parmesan would burst into this powerful melody, like the whistle of a village pipe, and sometimes the brie would accompany the melody with the dull and colorless accompaniment of damp tambourines. Livaro then performed a reprise of the piece on his own. And this whole symphony froze for a moment, ending with a high note of Jerome with anise - a drawn-out, like the sound of an organ... Emile Zola “The Belly of Paris”
And one of the funniest descriptions of the transportation of cheese “with a smell” was made by the English humorist writer Jerome K Jerome in his story “Three in a Boat, Not Counting the Dog.”

Below are a few aphorisms and sayings of famous people about cheese.

Camembert... is another man's friend in difficult times. Georges Clemenceau, French politician and statesman (1841 – 1929)
A meal that does not end with delicious cheese is like a beautiful woman with one eye. Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, French philosopher and culinary specialist, author of the famous treatise “Physiology of Taste” (1755-1826)
Cheese can be disappointing. It can be boring, it can be primitive, it can be too sophisticated. However, cheese is still milk's leap into immortality. Clifton Fadiman, American writer, television and radio host (1904-1999)
When I have insomnia, I dream about cheese. Robert Louis Stevenson, Scottish writer, author of Treasure Island (1850-1894)
How can you rule a country that has 246 varieties of cheese? Charles de Gaulle, general, French president (1890-1970)
If a country does not have at least fifty varieties of cheese and good wine, then the country has reached the end of its rope. Salvador Dali, Spanish painter (1904 – 1989)
Cheese, wine and true friends must stand up to time. Cuban proverb
Brie is a real cheese for a man. Erich Maria Remarque (1898 – 1970), from the novel “Arc de Triomphe”

Storage conditions/packaging

It is very important not only how the cheese was made, but also in what conditions it was stored in the store.

Even the best cheese quickly spoils in warm conditions. Cheese should be stored in refrigerators, at a temperature of 4-6 ° C for young cheeses, and 8-12 ° C for semi-hard and hard cheeses.

In addition, the cheese must be packed either in the original packaging (it should not be damaged) or in plastic film/cheese paper (in case a piece is cut off).

Airing the cheese will lead to it drying out and losing its qualities. And damaged packaging allows harmful bacteria to get onto the surface of the cheese.

Best before date

Cheese, like any product, has an expiration date indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

This is especially true for young cheeses, which can be stored for less than 5 days.

Aging/ripening period

Semi-hard and hard cheeses acquire a brighter, more intense taste, as well as a denser texture with increasing aging time.

Nutritional Features

Please note that blue cheeses are not recommended for children and pregnant women.

People with lactose intolerance should pay attention to aged hard cheeses, as the lactose content decreases as the cheese ages. However, the presence or absence of lactose can only be confirmed by laboratory testing.

People with cow protein intolerance can often eat goat and sheep cheeses.

Price

The price of Swiss cheeses in most cases depends on the aging of the cheese, the presence of an AOP certificate, the exchange rate and markups of intermediaries. In Moscow, the price starts from 2200 rubles/kg for hard cheeses.

The price of Russian cheeses varies significantly between regions, producers, types of cheeses and depends on the volume of production. The cost of cheese from large factories will be lower than that of artisan cheese.

In Moscow, the price of artisan cheese starts from 900 rubles/kg for fresh cheese like mozzarella, from 1200 rubles/kg for semi-hard cheese like caciotta and from 1700 rubles/kg for hard cheese like parmesan.

Quotes on the topic "Cheese"

The global production of cheese has quite large volumes, some varieties smell very strongly, and some have such a specific smell that they will simply scare off an inexperienced buyer. But here’s the paradox: it’s those cheeses that smell the most that have the most original taste, which allows you to compare them with works of art and write entire odes about them.

Although samples of fragrant cheeses can be found in domestic stores, most often the acquaintance with them occurs in their native element, that is, during a trip to France, Belgium, Switzerland, Holland... It is believed that visiting France and not trying the local fragrant soft cheeses is It’s the same as if you can’t eat pizza in Italy, sushi in Japan, or gazpacho in Spain.

French cheeses have their own labeling. So AOC (Appellation d'origine contrle) means "Original controlled name". It is believed that such a mark can only be assigned to those cheeses that meet legal requirements.

According to the laws, both the production of milk, which serves as a raw material, and the cheese making process itself must strictly comply with local recipes and traditions. As a result, cheese with such a label will be exactly as gourmets and culinary critics describe it.

It is important to take this into account, because, for example, German Camembert differs from its French counterpart - it is not smelly at all and has different taste qualities. This cheese is simply prepared for German customers, which in itself is not bad, but does not live up to expectations.

In England and other countries there is an analogue of the AOC - the PDO (Protected designation of origin) label. It also adapts established names to the area where they were traditionally produced.

You should know that almost all cheeses with a strong smell are made from unpasteurized milk. Most of the cheeses belong to the class of aged soft cheeses. The smell of cheese depends on various factors.

In addition, one and the same variety can be liked by one for its color and taste and completely scare away others. You can appreciate fragrant cheeses only by trying them yourself. Let's tell you about the ten most fragrant cheeses on the planet, giving you the opportunity to at least imagine them.

Talleggio. The first mention of this Italian cheese dates back to the tenth century. This is probably the oldest of the soft varieties of the product. Then the cheese was allowed to ripen in damp coastal grottoes due to the high humidity there, and from time to time the head was also washed with sea water. Most likely, it was she, so rich in microorganisms, that helped Talleggio acquire the fame of an fragrant and very tasty cheese. It is traditionally prepared in autumn and winter, this is the specificity of cow's milk during this period. Today, Talleggio is prepared in grottoes, and in special machines that recreate the microclimate of the caves. But either the lack of fresh sea water and air, or the use of pasteurized milk has led to the fact that modern cheese is no longer as odorous as its ancestor. Although you can also find classic Talleggio, which is produced in small batches using ancient technology. Unpasteurized milk is used here, and the product itself matures on wooden shelves in sea grottoes. The cheese is washed weekly with a sea sponge to prevent abnormal mold from forming. The structure of Talleggio is soft, it resembles butter. The cheese has a thin crust with a hint of tree bark, and salt crystals appear on the surface. The cheese has a mild taste, there are fruity notes and an unusual aftertaste. Talleggio is often used in salads, added to risotto or polenta.

Stilton. This is the real king of English cheeses. It can only be produced in the counties of Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire. The irony is that in the village of Stilton, which gave the cheese its name, it is prohibited to produce it, since it is located in another county - Cambridgeshire. Stilton's texture can vary from very soft and buttery to hard and crumbly with blue streaks due to the presence of the penicillium culture Penicillium roqueforti. The aroma of cheese comes with age - the larger it is, the more fragrant and refined the product. Stilton's fat content is usually about 32-35%. It is customary to serve this cheese with port wine. It is also used in creamed soups and goes well with broccoli, celery and crackers.

Stinking Bishop. And this cheese comes from England. It was made a long time ago, but the lost recipes were revived in 1972. It is now produced at Laurel Farm in Gloucestershire in the south of the country. To produce cheese, milk from a special breed of cow is used. As a result, the color of the cheese varies from white-yellow to beige, while the rind appears gray-orange. The fat content of the cheese is about 48%. The cheese got its exotic name thanks to the Stinky Bishop pear variety, which served as raw material for making cider, popular in the Middle Ages. It was in the pear drink that the monks placed heads of cheese once a month for washing. The combination of humidity and the absence of salt, which is not added until the cheese is released from the mold, gives bathing the opportunity to create special microflora on the surface of the cheese, which creates an unusual smell. It can be compared to the smell of long-worn socks or wet towels. The Fetid Bishop is similar to the French poisses de Bourgogne, especially prized by Napoleon. Even if its French counterpart has an offensive aroma for refined natures. The Stinking Bishop itself matures for about 4 months, after which the crust becomes sticky, like a mushroom cap. Once you purchase this product, you should place it in a sealed box or transport it in your personal vehicle. Otherwise, the situation described by Jerome K. Jerome in his “Three Men in a Boat and a Dog” will be possible. There, the passengers of the carriage in which the narrator was transporting his cheese flew out like a bullet at the nearest station so as not to inhale the cheese aroma. However, with the Stinking Bishop, the unpleasant odor can easily be removed along with the crust, and the cheese itself has a delicate taste. It is also easy to spread on toasted bread or biscuits; it is one of the leaders in popularity among cheeses in England.

Limburger. The Germans also like fragrant cheese, although other smells are held in high esteem there. The famous Limburger does not smell like socks, like the British, or feminine scents, like the French. Limburger is the personification of the stronger sex, so he has a corresponding smell - an unwashed male body. The fact is that the ripening of the product uses the bacteria Brevibacterium linens, which are also involved in creating the smell of human sweat. This cheese, so beloved in Germany, fits so organically into the local cuisine that no one even remembers that it itself comes from Belgium. Limburger is in demand in Austria and Holland; Pushkin also mentioned it in “Eugene Onegin” (“live Limburg cheese”). The cheese has a creamy taste, the yellow-brown crust is quite soft, and has traces of mold. Limburger has a salty, spicy, and quite rich taste. This cheese goes well with black bread and potatoes. As for drinks, Limburger is best consumed with apple cider, beer or fortified red wine, for example, port.

Roquefort. The famous blue cheese with mold is made in the south of France and is one of the most popular in the CIS. Sheep's milk is used for production; the semi-finished product is aged in limestone grottoes, where the microclimate promotes the formation of the noble mold Penicillium roqueforti. It is this that gives Roquefort the taste and aroma valued by gourmets. Real Roquefort is always made from pasteurized milk, and cow's milk is not suitable. However, you should be warned that this cheese is not only tasty, but also quite dangerous. This is especially true for pregnant women, for whom Roquefort is not recommended, as there is a risk of contracting listeriosis. However, this is nothing compared to the deadly and banned Italian cheese Casu Marzu, which can cause you to bleed or go blind. Roquefort can be found in any decent restaurant; this cheese is usually served at the end of the meal, paired with the appropriate wine. The drink you choose should be sweeter and brighter, the more mature the cheese.

Brie de Meaux. Another name for this cheese is Brie from Meaux. Meaux is a small town 40 kilometers from Paris. It was there that this type of cheese was traditionally prepared, even holding annual cheese fairs, attracting gourmets from all over the country. Without exaggeration, Brie can be called the royal cheese. After all, it was enjoyed by Philip II Augustus, the Queen of Navarre and the Duke of Orleans, Queen Margot and Henry IV, famous from Dumas’s novels. Even the biggest French glutton, the hero of Rabelais’s book “Gargantua and Pantagruel,” gave a head of brie to his parents. Although this cheese is reminiscent of another famous soft variety - Camembert, it is not as fragrant and fatty. A head of cheese looks like a flat cake 3-4 centimeters thick and 30-40 in diameter. Brie has a velvety coating of white mold with reddish veins. The delicate crust hides a pleasant flowing creamy mass with the smell of hazelnuts. The strong and unpleasant smell for many comes, as often happens, from the crust itself. Cheese connoisseurs believe that brie should definitely be eaten with it. After the first sample, the ammonia smell will no longer be perceived, and the most delicate taste will remain in the memory forever. It should be noted that French Brie de Meaux is completely different from German Brie, which is widely available in our supermarkets in tin cans. Real brie is made exclusively from raw cow's milk. This is what creates the delicate creamy structure, as well as the pungent odor when aged. This cheese should be stored in the refrigerator, and the product should be warmed to room temperature before serving. This will allow the aroma and taste to fully develop. Brie goes well with wine; both white and red will do.

Epoisse. Napoleon Bonaparte loved cheeses, but this was his favorite. It is officially prohibited in France to carry it on public transport, which in a country where cheese is worshiped says a lot. The recipe for making Epoisse was invented by Cisternian monks in an abbey near the town of Epoisse back in the 16th century. Whole and unpasteurized milk is used to make cheese. At one stage, the semi-finished product is soaked in Mark grape vodka. The cheese matures for about 5-8 weeks, after which it develops a shiny crust with small wrinkles. They are ivory in color for young Époisses, while older specimens develop reddish-brown hues. Only with proper aging will the cheese acquire a pungent taste and the pungent smell of an unwashed body. It is worth paying attention to the fact that under the crust the cheese should be creamy, soft and tender and in no case smell of ammonia. Such a smell will be a signal of spoilage of the product. Connoisseurs believe that a first-class epoisse must definitely smell like a woman; such an aroma will arouse desires and give rise to hot memories.

Munster. The recipe for this cheese came to us from the Benedictine monks back in the 7th century. Then in monasteries they tried to replace meat in this way. According to legend, the monks experimented with sour milk for so long that the result was a cheese with a beautiful reddish crust and the peculiar smell of highland pastures. Translated from poetic language, the cheese smelled like sweaty and unwashed feet. Real Munster is produced only in the Vosges; the monks' main secret is to turn the cheese over every two days. In addition, the product is washed with water from local sources, and milk is taken only from a special Vosges breed of cows. Despite its strong aroma, Munster is very popular in France. In addition, tasting fine cheese with good wine is conducive to poetry.

Camembert. This famous Norman soft cheese smells of sodium chloride, succinic acid and ammonium compounds. The French, on the one hand, compare the aroma of cheese with the smell of a chemical plant chimney, and, on the other hand, they selflessly love it, calling it “God’s feet.” Like Brie, Camembert is considered one of the most delicious cheeses in the world. For preparation, unpasteurized milk is used, which is allowed to mature for 20 days. The cheese itself has a delicate crust, which is covered with a thick coating of velvety white mold, which hides a creamy yellowish mass. Bread and red wine with a low tannin content go well with cheese. The main thing is not to forget that the cheese is only slightly washed down with wine, and not the drink is eaten with food.

Pont Leveque. This native of Normandy is the most fragrant, and its pedigree dates back to the 12th century. Soft cheese has a crust on which mold is located. Whole goat milk is used for production. Usually, when describing Pont Leveque, the topic of fragrance is ignored, and this is probably true. Why mention once again this dubious merit of the famous delicacy? But inside the head of such cheese you will find a multifaceted and rich taste with notes of fruit and nuts. Pont Leveque goes well with Burgundy wine and lettuce.

Top 5 delicious Russian cheeses according to Olga Shevchuk

Most artisan cheeses cannot be found in large chain stores. You need to look for them at specialized fairs, food markets, online stores and specialized cheese stores. For example, the Cheese Sommelier store has more than 30 locations throughout Russia.

However, you can also find delicious cheeses in chain stores. Here are 5 of my favorites:

hard cheese "Grand Premier" from "Moloko Group"
semi-hard Loutter cheese from Endorf
blue cheese Blue from Schonfeld
Camembert cheese from White cheese from Zhukovka
"Suluguni" from "Umalat"

How not to spoil the purchased cheese and enjoy its natural taste

When you get home, immediately put the cheese in the refrigerator. Recommended storage temperature is 4-6 °C.
If you bought cheese in its original packaging, after opening it, you should repackage the cheese in new packaging (special cheese paper, cling film or baking paper).
Do not store cheese near strong-smelling foods. Garlic, onions, smoked and fermented foods are bad company for cheese. It can be saturated with other people's aromas.
Cheese should not be stored next to raw meat, from which harmful microorganisms can transfer to the surface of the cheese. Place the cheese above the rack where the raw meat is kept, and cover the meat tightly.
You should not store cheese in containers with a tightly closed lid: excess moisture promotes the growth of unwanted microflora and your cheese may simply “suffocate.”
Follow the recommendations for storage periods and conditions (temperature and humidity) specified by the manufacturer on the packaging. Perishable food products (young cheeses, curd cheeses) are recommended to be consumed within 12 hours after opening the package, subject to storage conditions.
It is recommended to remove the cheese from the refrigerator 20-30 minutes before. before serving. Cheese at room temperature reveals its flavor better.

Cheese "Kasu Marzu"

Perhaps the most specific type of cheese is the Sicilian “Casu Marzu”. This cheese, to put it mildly, is not for everyone. It is kept longer than the normal fermentation stage, subjected to rotting, during which cheese fly larvae accelerate the breakdown of fats in the cheese and make it soft. If these larvae are disturbed, they can jump up to 15 centimeters, which is why this cheese is often eaten with special glasses. Many gourmets do not even remove the worms before eating.